Randomness

The Run-Away Hat

So the other day Lisa and I are enjoying a breezy, open-air bus ride and chit-chatting away when all of a sudden her most beloved ball cap flies off her head. It all happened in slow motion as she looks at me then out the window. I ask her if she wants to stop and get it, she hesitates, I ask again, by this time I can see the importance of this hat beginning to well up in her eyes. I reach over her, grab the string that rings the bell, throw all of my stuff in her lap as the bus comes to a halt, and I tell her to go on, I will take a taxi. Lol.

What a heroic thing to do. Right. So, I am running off the bus with a bouncing backpack attached to my shoulders as people on the bus are yelling, “Vano I vei? Cava?” (Where are you going? What?) I say “Na sala”, meaning “hat”, but it also means “road”. I am not sure if they knew I was running after a hat or running down the road. Man, the Fijian language is too simple. So as I am retracing our tracks I am also yelling at the bus “Vano, kua na wawa!” (Go, don’t wait). They wait anyways. I run down the hill, snatch up the hat about ¼ mile away, then begin to run back up the hill, in flip-flops, as the bus is slowly coasting backwards towards me. As I make a flying leap back onto the bus the people are cheering and clapping as if I just saved a life. It was a sight to see!

E Dua Na Peace Corp’s Vakamau (One Peace Corp’s Wedding)

One of our Peace Corps Volunteers got married to a Fijian man about a week ago! The wedding was traditional with the PCV and husband wearing masi cloth (a plant stem turned into a paper-like cloth). Many people came to wish her the best. After the village wedding, everyone headed over to The Uprising for the after party, where events turned into crazy dancing and lots of laughing. I kicked some butt in pool (billiards), drank some boxed wine (classy huh!?) and enjoyed the weekend with friends!

Vakatulewa

It has been a while. Since my last blog John and I taught a stay in school program to the 7th and 8th grade at a local primary school. It went extremely well. The two teachers who sat in on the program had just a few suggestions that we agreed with and have now incorporated into our two hour session. I was delighted to be told that the information is quite important for the children to hear because they are not given an opportunity at home to discuss different education options, potential careers, or the long-term benefits of making good decisions now, early on. I am pleased that we were asked to come back and speak to the parents at a PTA meeting as well as encouraged to talk to secondary schools as well.

Talking to a successful Fijian businessman the other day also opened my eyes to the struggles of secondary school boys dropping out of school to work in the sugar cane fields. The children’s parents are to blame because these kids are only 12-16 years old, an age in America where children are forced to attend school, whereas here in Fiji, children are sometimes encouraged to drop out so that they can make some quick cash for the family. We see the importance of our program being stressed towards the parents as well, but how to reach the parents and make an impression may become a new challenge.

Beeswax Candle Making

The day after our Vakatulewa program was a success John and Leslie were conducting a beeswax candle making workshop at an Indo-Fijian’s house. I somehow finagled my way into the workshop and gave a few creative ideas of my own. It was really neat to see Indians and Fijians working together. Since I live in an all-Fijian village, I very rarely have to opportunity to enjoy the Indian culture. They had each brought a different Indian dish for lunch so I was also able to try all different authentic South Indian food. Killed two birds with one stone!

Leslie had received grant money through the Peace Corps Partnership Program to order all kinds of candle molds, wick, pots, and bee equipment. This workshop was the first time she was able to use her new candle making supplies. The angels turned out beautiful as well as my staggered bamboo votive idea for tourists. I think the women were really enlightened and excited to start their own creative innovations.

Bamboo

What an awesome plant. It feeds pandas, builds bilibilis (bamboo rafts used for transportation down rivers), transforms homes, and to my recent discovery, makes amazing musical instruments. As John and I were cutting the bamboo for the candles I saw different lengths of bamboo piling up on the ground. I knew there had to be a use for them, and then I remembered all of those visits to the science center with Wil back in Birmingham. At the McWane Center there was a line of different sized metal tubes that were used as a human size organ/xylophone. I picked up the pieces, took off my flip-flop, and poof, a different sound came from each piece of bamboo. I was so excited that I took the bamboo to the candle making and then the ladies started describing other instruments such as guitars, flutes, and harps that can be made from this beautiful plant. My next hobby, a bamboo band in the kindergarten!

All Vol

The new Peace Corps volunteers of Fiji, so named FRE-08, have arrived and soon enough we will have a time to get to know them. I am so excited. In two weeks we will be eating at staff’s homes visiting with 35 new volunteers! We are getting four new volunteers in my area alone! Thank goodness I am close to other Americans, this fact has literally kept me sane.

Why Fijians Don’t Need a Lot of Money

I finally figured it out. Yes, they are subsistence farmers and can grow almost anything they want to eat, and yes, they can raise chickens, cattle, and goats, as well as fish for meat. What I did not understand until just recently is how most of their work is communal without an exchange of money, just favors. This is why they have such a strong kerekere (borrowing, helping) system.

Within our village of about 230 people we have two experienced carpenters, a plumber, an electrician, experienced divers, experienced farmers, musicians, singers, preachers, mat weavers, scientists (very general use of the word), teachers, boat captains, fishermen, livestock farmers, fighters, and government officials. The idea of having everyone in the village specialize in a different expertise enables them to “use” each other without the need to pay any money. There aren’t many things that they need to purchase from town besides flour, sugar, soap, and noodles. It is quite different from America, but at the same time just as efficient. No one is trying to cheat them on how much it will cost to get their boat engine fixed, no one is charged to run a pipe to their shower, everyone pitches in when it is time to build a house, and people get along because they never know when they will need the other person’s skills. I guess I should just compare it to ancient civilizations, before currency was ever exchanged for help.

Why Fijans Say We American’s Have a Lot of Money

Exchange rates, amount of work, education, and industrialized are my top four reasons for receiving this statement on a daily basis.
Exchange rates – About 1 USD = 2 Fijian Dollars. A good salary in Fiji is 15,000 FJD versus a good salary in America would be about 60,000 FJD. So, of course, if a person making a normal living in America decided to up and move to Fiji with money saved up while working in America, they would appear to Fijians as being rich. Although, the point must also be said that a bunch of bananas in an American supermarket might cost you 5 USD versus the same organic bananas sold in Fiji would be 0.50 USD. Let’s also compare a utility bill. On average, each month of electricity might cost you 150 USD, whereas here in Fiji, a typical month would cost you 4 USD. Don’t forget though, you would be exchanging 24 hours of electricity and air conditioning for 2 hours electricity per night from a generator.

So in America, people go to school. They often graduate with honors and continue on to a higher education such as a bachelor degree. In Fiji, probably half the population does not make it through 10th grade. (Hence, the reason we are stressing our new “stay in school” program)

Also, in America, as well as any other developed nation, people work hard, on average, 40 hours a week. I would have to average a work week for Fijians to be about 10 hours. This would consist of men going to their farm or women weaving their mats. So the workload does not really translate into a large salary.

All three of the reasons above could really fit into one category – industrialized/developed. Fiji is a third world country and therefore Fijians have a completely different concept of daily needs than a typical American. I am not saying that one location/lifestyle is better than the other, just different.

Kindergarten in Review

The kindergarten is going great! The children are learning a LOT of English words and songs. They are really enjoying the structured class time. In the past few weeks they have been learning all about themselves. This week they have been focusing on body parts and articles of clothing (in English). Their primary schools are going to be so impressed.

I have also been putting together a “Thank you” book for First Christian Church of Gainesville, Texas. It will be a while before everything is ready, but we still have you in our thoughts and prayers. Each day we go into the kindergarten and use the supplies ya’ll so generously gave to my community and thank God for thoughtful people like ya’ll. Thank you so much for your time and immense help.

The kindy also has a guest speaker on Wednesdays which consists of someone from the village coming in to teach things such as weaving, meke (songs), and the “old” language of our village. We have already learned how to brush our teeth and soon we will be learning how to correctly wash our hands. The Bamboo Band will be coming along soon as well. Plus, an Earth day (great idea given by a nearby Peace Corps volunteer, Lydia) where we will build tire swings, plant seeds and flowers, remodel our sand box, and use recycled materials to make toys. In other words, the kindergarten is keeping me on my toes with new projects.

I have one favor to ask on behalf of the kindergarten. We would really like to have a doctor’s corner, but the hospitals around here are not prepared for patients let alone able to give away used equipment. If anyone comes across a stethoscope or blood pressure band (Neither have to work) please let me know. Thank you for your help!

Virgin Coconut Oil

Again, still waiting on the government for economic support, but the villagers are so keen on learning how to produce VCO that they have asked me to conduct a hands-on workshop, teaching them the process step-by-step. So, next week will be days full of scraping, squeezing, filtering, and sunning. I am so glad the community is eager to learn.

My favoritest visit from America

This picture was supposed to go with the Vanua Levu trip. It is two volunteers behind the first waterfall at Bouma National Forest, Taveuni, Fiji
Saturday, May 8, 2010 They finally arrived! I set off Saturday morning for Nadi to pick up my Mom and Sister. All day I was counting the minutes and trying to keep myself occupied with traveling, reading, and visiting with a lovely family from Melbourne, Australia. Eventually the time came for me to head to the airport. At about 11:30 PM their plane hit the tarmac and they strode in with tears, smiles, and pounds upon pounds of luggage. We headed to Smuggler’s Cove on New Town Beach and had “girl talk” for hours before falling asleep. Sunday, May 9, 2010 Jessica's first Bu... baby coconut juice. Today was supposed to be a relaxed, recover from Jet Lag day, but we had to travel down to Pacific Harbor by bus. Waiting for a bus to Pacific Harbor. The ride was exhilaratingly fast, going around curves in a bit of a hurry, passing log trucks going uphill, around a sharp curve, and in a no-passing zone. But, we are alive to tell-the-tale. After arriving at our resort for the next two nights we find out that our reservation was lost somewhere between my phone reservation and the military coming in this weekend to reposes a nearby resort and shark dive operation (Beqa Divers) for not paying land lease fees (or something to that effect). So most of the guests from the shutdown resort were scrambling for an affordable place to stay and ended up with our reservation. I am not naming the place though, because it appeared to be a very nice backpacker’s resort that I would rather not give a bad name. The person who owned the small lodge took us in his truck to find another suitable accommodation. The first place we checked out was at first very becoming and quaint, but the more we searched the place the more problems we found (black dust-like particles in the beds, no toilet paper in the bathroom, mosquito infested surroundings, and a stove with dishes that came from a hurricane in 1944). So, in the end we ended up at The Pearl. Absolutely no complaints, as this resort is heaven in Fiji. So, it turns out that lilly pad flowers close up at night, we never decided if a new flower came up the next day or the same one, but Jessica was definitely amused. Lol, read this sign in front of The Pearl. The beautiful Pearl hotel in Pacific Harbour. Mom and Jessica were able to try Fijian food at a Lovo night held at The Pearl along with some Fijian entertainment. Wow, two dark babes holding my sissy, so jealous... lol, until she complained of being covered in their sweat. Monday, May 10, 2010 We enjoyed a night in relaxation without a hint of lint in our bed sheets. At dawn we woke up and prepared for our exhilarating trip down the Navua River with Rivers Fiji. Our continental breakfast was set out for us an hour early to accommodate our early departure and the rafting operation couldn’t have been more convenient as Rivers Fiji is located at the entrance to our resort. The drive into the interior of Fiji was beautiful, but Jessica had a mishap before we arrived anywhere of significance. We were hiking into the woods a bit and she gets caught on a line of barbed wire. At first she is unfazed by it, but after a few more minutes of pain and some blood she realizes it is probably a little worse than she had hoped for. Back at the Rivers Fiji bus she is searching through the first aid kit to doctor it up before the trip down the river. One of our highlights of the trip. At the end of the rafting trip the kids helped Jessica and I let the air out of the raft. Family rapid trips are the best! Their free massage, I politely declined the pain in the back. The small hike to the beginning of our rafting trip down the Navua River. Yes, she made a big splash. Our picnic spot. Do you see that tiny little boat down there? Wow, is all I can say about our white water rafting trip. It was absolutely breathtaking. Soaring cliffs rose on either side of the blue-green waters with 100 foot waterfalls cascading intermittently. The guides were rambunctious young Fijian men who knew how to put on a good show. We were flying down rapids backwards, jumping off cliffs, and swimming next to “Anaconda’s” shooting stage. There was even a free massage at the end which Jessica and Mom decided to partake in. By the end of the rushing waters we regard ourselves as providential to have had the experience of a lifetime in the interior of Fiji. Tuesday, May 11, 2010 Today we are headed up to my village for my family to see the “real” Fiji. We first focus on getting all of our luggage to Suva to visit the Peace Corps Office and do a little shopping. As we wait on the side of the road for a mini bus we are approached by a taxi driver who offers to take us for 80 F$. I think anyone who has not lived in Fiji would have probably taken him up on his offer, but for me, I know better. A mini bus comes to a screeching halt within about 5 minutes and we hop in paying only 7 F$ each. Upon arriving in Suva, the mini bus driver even takes us all the way up to the Peace Corps Office. Score! Oh Public Transport Shopping in the handicraft center in Suva. Mom bought herself a kava bowl and Jessica a rat preventor. Lol. Mom and Sis meet everyone in the office and then we are off to shopping and eating. Maya Dhaba was good as always (the best Indian food in Fiji) and mom and sis purchased almost everybody in their lives a souvenir. Mission accomplished. A typical breakfast, lunch, or dinner for a Fijian. Mom was disgusted. Yeah, typical "work" in Fiji. Sleep where ever you can find a comfy spot. This is the public bathrooms I deal with. The worst part, it costs 50 cents to use it. Eventually, we caught the 2:30 PM bus up to my boat house. Arriving around 6:30 PM in the pitch black was not really how I had this planned, mainly because Jessica and Mom were not going to get to see the astounding, cliff-ridden coast from my boat dock to the village. Thank goodness I arranged a private hire boat before I set off on this trip of ours so that when we arrived the boat was waiting. A few strapping young men from my village were at the boat house selling their sea cucumber catches-of-the-day so they helped carry our luggage to the boat. The boat ride was enjoyable with the bright starry night bidding us a safe trip. Upon arrival we were ushered to my house for rest and then required to present our isevusevu (gift to the village for entering). I made sure this was the first time Mom and Sis tried yaqona/grog/kava. The women in the village made beautiful salusalu (leis) and after the official ceremony everyone entertained us with songs and mekes. Sooner rather than later we bid the villagers goodnight and headed off to bed. Wednesday, May 12, 2010 Eparama with Robin. My family at a Fijian function, how adorable. The kids doing a meke. I think the girl on the far left was the only one who really knew it by heart. I think Mom's entire goal of this trip was to hold a baby. Breakfast time. My only two sisters in this world! Me playing nurse Jamie to Jessica's barbed wire crater. Jessica is a true Fijian. Just hanging out. We learned the hard way that wine atracts roachies. Bubu Vesi, one of my favorite elders, so jolly, all the time. She can actually hand wash clothes, and she claimed to enjoy it! Hear that Rafa? Yes, Mogli always watches me cook, I think because she expects scraps thrown to her like a dog. The next morning I made breakfast and we set off for the waterfalls. As we were on our way to the first watering hole Buka Jr. was following us on bareback. He eagerly offered Jessica a ride on the horse. She jumped on like a professional and rode along the trails towards the cattle farm. Her new special friend. Eventually she returned the beautiful stallion and walked on to the watering hole. Yaca found this baby octopus to use as bait. I begged her to let him live. Guess who won? Of course the princess who always gets her way. Papa and Mogli snoozing together. The cave of luminescent spiders. The goat feces infested cave. Oh glorious water. Now Jessica is climbing a waterfall. I never knew she was such a monkey. I guess I should have known based off of her nickname. The little rugrats at the watering hole. I was happily surprised with a new addition to our watering hole. One of the youth tied a thick vine to the top off our Mango tree so that we could easily rope swing into the pool. Jessica and I had a ball swinging and calling out like Jane of the Jungle. Next, my journey up the river continued with climbing big boulders, straddling cliffs, and crawling through caves. Mom reluctantly declined the hike to the top as she was having difficulty with the extreme rock climbing. Jessica and I continued on a little further so that I could show her our waterfall surrounded by vines. My favorite Mom. Yes that is me up there yelling like Jane. Climbing the cliffs... freelance. Climbing the vines. And more vines. As we came back towards the village we were ready for a shower and lunch. After cleaning up we rested until about 6:30 PM when we were ushered into Tata Maoni’s house for another celebration with songs, grog, and mekes. Again, the family at a Fijian event. Sissy's first bowl of yaqona/kava/grog! Mom's fist bowl of yaqona/kava/grog! Mom experiencing the Taralala. She looks so beautiful. Thursday, May 13, 2010 Today after breakfast we headed over to Sisi’s (Sisilia) settlement for a visit. Lol, I will give her the benefit of the doubt, it is a VERY steep, slippery hill. Along our walk to a nearby settlement to visit Sisi. As we arrived Sisi had prepared salusalu (leis) for each one of us. The ibe ni kana (cloth for eating) had also been laid out. I could not believe it. She cooked us fresh prawns, tavioka, sweet potatoes, watermelon, and papaya for lunch. It was a beautiful spread. We all sat down to eat, enjoying our food and conversation. Within minutes the food was devoured and we laid down for a nap. Upon waking up Jessica and I were ready to hike to the upper waterfalls so all four of us walked back to the village. I think this was a posed shot, aiming for that bright red Colgate curtain ring. After reaching the watering hole with several kids in tow, Jessica, Sisi, and I abandoned Mom at the pool and we headed up the trail to the falls. The water at the highest fall was just as I remembered it, a 40 foot drop, cascading towards the bottom, with a deep pool surrounding its landing. We swam, talked, and took pictures, eventually heading on down to the second waterfall through a goat feces ridden cave. This waterfall consists of four closely linked falls completing one 45 foot combination. It sadly did not appear as I remembered it for the simple fact that I was coming down into the falls instead of climbing up against the water, making the descent a little more difficult than my usual ascent. Eventually Sisi figured out the easiest way and we all clambered our way down. The neon red spiders were within the last bit of the waterfall, their triangular back patch glowing in the darkness. Walking through the small pool at the bottom gives you that eerie, webs-entangling-me kind of nightmare. Finally we were clear of the spiders and able to wash off the sticky, enclosed feeling. Only 20 minutes passed and we were reentering the village. In my bure. Mom was passed out on the floor, Jessica hopped in the shower, and I began preparing dinner. How did I get stuck with all the cooking duties? After dinner we enjoyed rest and relaxation for one night, knowing the tomorrow night would be our itautau (going away ceremony). Friday, May 14, 2010 Me and my two sisters headed to visit my namesake, Sio, and my papa (Ulamila). Me attempting to ring our lali. Yes, several people got on to me for this, it's apparently not allowed. What a beautiful day for going to our local beach. Yaca, Sio, and Ulamila were back in the village as of last night and they were excited to entertain Jessica and Mom for the day. We all packed into the boat and drove out to the beach. The day consisted of shell collecting, drinking baby coconuts, floating in the water, and enjoying the scenery. I can't believe I really let him put a huge knife to my throat, it was quite an uncomfortable feeling. Mom and sis relaxing in our crystal clear water. I think Mom took this one, but I am in love with it. Ulamila and I. Going to our local beach. Tonight was our going away ceremony entailing a traditional yaqona ceremony, a speech from Bubu Moli, and their “Isalei” going away song. Soon we were dancing, passing out chasers, and watching plays preformed by the kids. It was an amazing production and I am so proud of my village for their hospitality and aim to please. My mom and Sister really enjoyed their stay. Ah, sisterly love. Jessican's first experience with Fijian dancing... they call it the Taralala. I have always wanted this picture taken. The kids here LOVE their picture taken and then getting to look at it. Saturday, May 15, 2010 Today is Vatu-i-Ra! Our packing is rushed but the excitement is building. I have wanted to visit this Bird Life sanctuary since arriving in the Rakiraki area. We board the boat, with everything from a compass, flares, and lifejackets, to food, water, and cameras. The ride to the island was breathtaking as the sun had just risen. We arrive sooner than expected and have ample time to explore the far reaches of this 2 hectare island. I climb both cliffs, hold two different species, and take close-ups of babies in their nest. We find eggs, nice shells, amazing manure, and a small reminder of the people who oftentimes sleep on the beach. It begins to rain and the boat captains attach a tarp to the trees for shelter while building a fire for warmth. The ambiance is magical. This refrigerator was disgusting inside. Hope you are sleeping well Kava. So, this is me and sis as kids with our pet ducks. So Mom deemed this as a repeat of the above picture from when we were little. Our remarkable bonfire! Birds of Vatu-i-Ra. And yet, another species. Eggs just laying on the beach. Thank goodness there are no rats and few visitors. Cool shot. Who me? A baby of a different species. Atop the other large, mountainous hill of manure and rock. Poor bird had a broken wing. We found out later about the bird lice... ooops. View from the top. Two of our captains, Sanaila and Kavaia. Ah, a baaabbbyyy. Nope, no cavities. Polly want a cracker? My favorite bird at Vatu-i-Ra, he has such a puzzled look. Sisterly love. I promise this was not posed. Sunday, May 17, 2010 – Friday, May 21, 2010 Our beautiful Fiji Tall Coconut trees. First sunrise at Naigani Island Resort. Today we arrived at Naigani Island Beach Resort. The beach is beautiful, the staff are friendly, and the food is OK. I do not recommend this resort for many reasons, but mainly because they are not stocked with simple necessities. For example: only 3 beach chairs, out of pool towels, the pool was extremely dirty, no tequila, no passionfruit juice (which goes in half their drinks), the hot water was turned off for two days, there was no ice at the resort for two days, most of the smoothies were warm, the food was overpriced, the oars were broken, and the dive equipment was an off brand (Boss?) and I was warned by other guests that the equipment leaks and was not safe. Their internet site also promises a very rare experience of swimming with wild dolphins. After arriving at the resort to book the excursion I am informed that this trip was never really a concrete excursion and never worked out. Somehow, all of our disappointments were marked as not essential, and we had a great time. One day we took a kayak trip to Picnic Beach and snorkeled around. The lagoons of Naigani Island. Another day was a day trip to Levuka, Ovalau. 203 grueling stairs in Levuka, Ovalou The old colonial Levuka, Ovalou, Fiji Islands I really enjoyed the old colonial buildings and stories. Another day we hired a boat to take us around the island for sight-seeing and snorkeling. Naigani was an enjoyable time and the small crowd (a family of 10 from Australia, two couples from Australia, two couples from New Zealand, one man from America, and two girls from the UK) made the experience very relaxing and intimate. I wish I could give a good review, but there was just too much dissatisfaction. Look at this neat nudribranch. His underside is the part at the top of the picture and his topside is the camoflauge pattern at the bottom of the picture. I am surprised I saw him in the sand. View of Ovalou from Naigani Island. Sunrise over the millionaires' island. She was better than me and Jessica combined. Mom at her finest. Nemos so close to kissing. Sissy snorkeling, a natural. Lol, I think we need new paddles. This is what vacation is for. Overlooking Naigani Village. Beach Babes. Eventually, Friday came around and it was time for us to head back to Nadi. We traveled through Suva for last minute souvenir shopping and lunch, then headed on by minibus to Nadi. The last night together was hard as we knew we didn’t have much time left. In the morning we were so rushed to pack and get to the airport that there wasn’t much time for goodbyes. As they were entering the security area we hugged and then they were off. The shorter the goodbye, the easier it is. I walked away alone, towards the public bus stop, carrying a heavy backpack (and burden) on my shoulders. Another year alone… hopefully Sis will come see me again and Dad is trying. So, back to my life.