Fiji Time

Patchin Up the Straw

I am laying in bed in a fitful sleep, dreaming about merrily playing in majestic waterfalls when I am woken by a natural waterfall on my arm. My roof has holes! The grass finally started to break down and allow water from our recent torrential downpours to enter into my house. I think the wolf huffed and puffed until he blew the water in. Not only was it dripping through the roof, but through a layer of plastic and a mosquito net as well.


My little brother helping out with the grass.


Two elders in the village puttin on a hibiscus show.

So, the next day I expressed my concerns to the village men and much to my surprise, that afternoon they were digging trenches around my house and adding grass to my Fijian bure. I wish I could say this solved the problem... there are still leaks, but, much better than before!


Patchin up the roof.

Veisiko


A few weeks ago I participated in my first veisiko (to visit a sick person and take a present). We went to my Tata Cakaulevu’s (Big Reef) house in a nearby settlement to bring him soap, sugar, rice, milk, toilet paper, etc. He isn’t really sick, but his health in deteriorating and he lives with his son and nephew, so they have no women taking care of them. This situation in rare in Fiji, especially because he is 30 minutes away from the village and often fends for himself at 62 years old. He is an extremely kind man and is always up for telling stories, helping you when you need it, and always offers food when visitors come over.


Starting the hike to the settlement.


Hand in hand.


Hiking to the settlement.

Early in the morning the women’s club set out towards the settlement with their Fijian dreke (basket made to carry on the back) full of household supplies. We walked through the forest, plantations, beach, and mangroves to reach his house. Upon arrival a sevusevu (kava) was presented and all of the women drank one bilo (cup). Then, the gifts were handed over and a few words of thanks were exchanged. Finally, story time. A few women went fishing to collect food for lunch. I headed on to our beach for a litttle R&R.


Taking a rest before entering the house.


The women giving their gifts.


Tata Cakaulevu drinking grog.


Hiking to the beach.


Lunch at the beach.


Coconuts?

Halloween FIJI Style


Some of the crowd.


The famous 4: Lady Gaga.


Construction and 70s.


Yes, Santa went into the pool.




Words can’t express the good times we had for Halloween. About 30 volunteers met up at The BeacHouse on the Coral Coast. With four Lady Gagas, Jesus, Santa, a Girl Scout, Stevie Urkel, and many more, the party was beyond imaginable. I think the pictures do not do it justice. We had several people thrown in the pool and maybe one dancing on a table. I’m not sure what all went down. Let’s leave it at that.

Second Worst Boat Ride EVER

Oh my, the trip back to my village. Lol, dreadful to say the least. The buses were fine. I called the boat captain twice to make sure he knew I was coming and to check in with him. Well, another woman from my village and I were on the same bus from Lautoka and so we were on the same bus to the boat landing as well. When we arrived, the boat was missing. Oh I could kill the captain! He is one of my best friends in the village too. He said it was because the waves were getting bigger and a storm was blowing in, but he should have called.


So, Mili and I ended up waiting 5 hours for the youth boys to get done drinking beer and telling stories so that we could ride the boat with them. By the time we headed out it was dark, raining, the boys were drunk and wouldn't sit down, they smoked cigarette after cigarette (you would think on a fiberglass, open air boat that the smoke would just go up, nope), the engine stopped 5 times (something about the key was missing?), we hit reef once, stopped at two villages to buy kava, and I arrived at 11 PM, soaking wet. I think the staff in the Peace Corps office would have rather me stayed at The BeacHouse. I agree!


The next morning I woke up with no voice (allergic to smoke) and miserably upset that I left all my friends behind. They were enjoying each other's company and eating cheeseburgers while I was miserable. It’s all good.


Cliff Jumping?

Two girls from the village and I hiked up to the highest point near my village. I was so excited to finally sit on the peak that I so often wonder at! Four boys followed us with dogs. Each time we passed a wild cow or goat the dogs went crazy and chased them down. At one point the dogs caused anaphylactic shock on one of the goats and it passed out. Somewhat funny, sad at the same time.

As we hiked through the forest we found several fruit trees, papaya, ripe mango, passionfruit, grapefruit, bananas, plantains, and cocoa bean. The best fruit is free fruit! We also found this huge fungus/flower looking thing. Definitely made up for the horrible boat ride the night before!


Fresh mangoes anyone?



Sharing a papaya.


On our way up...


The group made it!


The Top!


That's my village down there!


Look how BIG it is!


Close up.



My Mogli.


So scared.

Probably because she just got in trouble for doing this.


They are too much fun.


The Cool Kids.


The Fijian-Red Neck Car.

WhAt DoEs JaMiE dO?

The Price Is Right

My Peace Corps Partnership Proposal grant is complete thanks to my dear friends and family. I would like to give a personal thank you to The Baldwins, Tim & Christine Connor, Lue Ann Lott, Dr. Cynthia Brooks, the Greater Birmingham Returned Peace Corps Volunteer Group, and David, Julie, Wil, and Lexi Chadwick. Without all of your gracious donations (plus those of you who donated that I am not aware of yet) my village would not be able to lay a safe and sanitary footpath for the use of generations to come. The village is ecstatic that the money has been so graciously given and with speedy delivery as the footpath is most needed during the wet season, starting in December. THANK YOU ALL SOOO VERY MUCH.

Volunteers Learn Virgin Coconut Oil

Last week I hosted three Peace Corps Volunteers. They came to learn how to produce the amazing product, Virgin Coconut Oil. Within Peace Corps I am considered the “Virgin Coconut Oil Queen”. Lol, it fits, simply because all growing up I was called “Mom’s little Princess and the Pea”. Of course, when I was little I thought she was calling me a princess that pees, so naturally, I didn’t like my nickname at all. Nowadays, it is sooo true. Back to VCO, the three volunteers learned how to collect the coconuts, husk, scrape, squeeze, ferment, separate, filter and sun. They were also taught the properties of VCO, different ways to run a business within the village, where to purchase the supplies, how to select families who will be successful, and other necessary information for starting a VCO business.

Scraping.

Squeezing

Separating.

Filtering.

In the end, we made some VCO to use for cooking, as well as mixed up a few massage oils by adding essential oils. I hope they learned what they expected to and will be able to take their new skills back to their communities.

HIV/AIDS and STIs – That Uncomfortable Talk

A nearby Peace Corps health volunteer was also invited into my village to teach about HIV/AIDS and STIs. In Fiji, talking about sex and sensitive health issues is somewhat restricted so they have not been educated thoroughly on safe sex practices and when to visit the doctor. During the seminar the village was extremely involved, asking questions and demonstrating the correct use of a condom. Plus role plays and games, the village now has a good understanding of how fast sexual diseases are spreading within Fiji and how to protect themselves.

Lots of villagers were there.

Teaching the crowd.

Lydia playing "questions and answers".

The Smokeless “Rocket Stove” Experiment

My nextdoor neighbor, Grandmother Lowata, using the Rocket Stove.

Another Peace Corps volunteer spent some time in Fiji perfecting a smokeless stove deemed the “rocket stove”. I have recently introduced it to a family in the village to assess the benefits of making one for several families. By using the rocket stove they would spend less time in the forest collecting firewood as well as breathe in less of the harmful smoke inhaled while cooking over an open fire.

The Freshest Chicken EVER

While the volunteers where visiting, I thought it a good idea to buy a chicken from a villager, experience the killing, removing of the feathers, and cooking, therefore, eating the freshest chicken EVER. They were up for it! We bought our little mother hen and brought her up to my namesake’s house. As I handed it over to her, she immediately started to hold its mouth shut with her fingers. I hesitated, asking her if it would be quicker and less painful if we just chopped its head off. She agreed, taking me over to a raw, splintered two by four and holding its head tight across the wood, cleanly chopped the head off. I must say, I never expected this sort of brutality towards animals coming from my namesake.

My namesake suffocating the chicken.

Cutting off the head of the Mother Hen.

I quickly asked her if a chicken really runs around with its head cut off. This chicken couldn’t have gone anywhere. She was dead to the world. Anyways, the chicken was placed in a basin and boiling water was poured over her angelic, white feathers. My namesake began yanking feathers out. I was astonished at how easily they release from the chickens pink skin. I gave it a try and ended up enjoying the quick, yet tedious work.Add hot water.

Pull some feathers.

Ta da. The freshest, nakedest chicken you have ever seen.

Soon the chicken was ready to be degutted. As Ili cut open the belly and pulled out the intestines, a fresh egg splattered onto the ground. Other eggs were inside ready to develop. Each one was simply the yolk with veins running in all directions around the glossy, yellow exterior. As she continued to clean out the insides she opened the intestines and cleaned out all of the green, coagulated grass so that the intestines could be cooked into a stew with the other grotesque interiors.

Oops.

Babies in the making.

Mmm, my namesake's favorite ingredients for stew.

Month of Little Work - Sis Visits!

Beautiful view in my bay.

It’s been over a month! Sorry, I have not been on top of things lately.

Candle Making


Lots of women showed up for beeswax candle making.

I taught the women and a few men in the village how to make candles out of beeswax. They were so impressed that the women’s group wants to make them to sell to a handicraft festival this month! New small business, even if it only happens once!

So these are pictures of the women in our community kitchen making candles with molds from America.


Preparing the wick before pouring the wax.


Quality check.



FREE Baby Swing

Here in Fiji, the people have learned how to reuse products extremely well. Some end up in a rubbish pit, but often tin cans are used for ash trays, glass is used to store food, cardboard cartons and plastic bags are reused over and over as well as plastic bottles.


Genius.

Although, I never imagined a flour sack would become a baby swing. This is one of my favorite babies in the village in a handmade basinet/rocker. Isn’t it genius? Just a few sticks, some rope, and a flour sack and you’ve got yourself a free baby swing.

JESSICA TIME


Ah, sisterly love.


Two of my favorite sisters.

The time came and went, fast, too fast. My favorite sister (one and only ) came to visit me over the past two weeks. We had a great time giving each other sisterly advice, entertaining the kids in the village, enjoying Fijian cuisine, and traveling Viti Levu.



The kids driving their homemade car around the village.


Drinking a baby coconut shaped into a cup.


Jessica atop our natural ship.


This is my mushroom rock that I run away to when things get tough.

For the first several days we were in my village hiking to our own secluded beach, snorkeling the village’s protected reefs, swinging on our vine rope into the watering hole, and taking a wet ride on a bilibili.


Her first and only bilibili ride.

The secluded beach was so enticing we had to visit twice!


Jessica and I sharing my hammock at our private beach.

Jessica brought bubbles, a Frisbee, tattoos, and chalk with her to play with the little munchkins.


Playing frisbee with the kids.

They absolutely adored her! The Frisbee was a total hit, everyone in the village wanted a “sticka” (tattoo), the kids had a ball trying to blow their own bubbles, and the chalk ended up on walls of houses, trees, and stones all over the village. We were also invited to several family’s homes for dinner or lunch so she got to try pumpkin leaves, prawn, fried rice, dhal, curry, roti, cassava, rourou, fried fish, and fish in coconut milk.


Jessica gettin roudy with the little grommets.


Giving the kids "stickas" or in our world, temporary tatoos.


They got a kick out of it!


Ever so happy.


Cooking in my adorable kitchen


Sis pulling out the chalk, watch out, they write on EVERYTHING.


On the rocks... for now


Our last grog session with lots of boys around 16 years old. How did that happen?

At The Source


The one and only Fiji Water plant.

After leaving the village we headed to the one and only Fiji Water plant near Tavua, Fiji. This is where the source for all of Fiji Water is. We took a very informative tour from the second floor, viewing down through a glass window. The plant was big, but not nearly as big as someone would imagine when they think of how world renowned the Fiji Water brand is. Americans sure are smart at advertising. It turns out all of the water comes from one horseshoe shaped aquifer that is under the parking lot of the plant. The water that comes in your water bottle is never exposed to outside air. It is filtered then exposed to UV light to purify it before being bottled in Fiji water bottles made on site. The bottles are made from a resin that is shipped in from Thailand. It is dried thoroughly, melted, and then formed into a test tube shape. Next, the test tube goes into a heating machine with a mold for each bottle. The plastic tube is heated, air is blown into the opening, and the bottle expands to the shape of the mold. The mold is made out of metal and is kept cold so that as soon as the warm plastic touches the mold, the plastic hardens. The bottles are filled mechanically. If a bottle is below 498 mL or above 510 mL it is thrown off the line, emptied, and recycled. Otherwise, if the bottle gets dented in the process or the label is crooked, the bottle is given to employees. Everything you never wanted to know about Fiji Water.


At the Source.


Riding the carrier into the interior.

After the village thing was done we headed to the tallest mountain in Fiji, Mt. Tomanivi, also known as Mt. Victoria. Don’t be alarmed, the tallest mountain is only 1232 meters and only took 2 ½ hours to climb to the top.


Starting the hike up, together.


We had to cross a few babbling brooks.

The going got tough at about ¾ of the way up where it had just rained pretty good towards the top of the mountain and everything was slippery mud… and straight up. We had 10 volunteers and one Fijian climb with us, so everyone got separated towards the beginning, but in the end we all gathered at the top, drifting in the clouds.


The view from just below the clouds.


A spider web glistening after a light morning mist.


We all made it to the top of the highest mountain in Fiji!

The flora and fauna were breathtaking, with hundreds of ferns surrounding the trail. As we descended the mountain, loud-squawking red-throated lories dove through the trees above us. The Red-throated Lori is considered a rare species only found in this mountain region, and is therefore listed as an important bird area in Fiji.


The Mine Rest House.

During our stay in the interior, we stayed at an old Mine Rest House for ex-pats during the prosperous gold mining days. The house was very rustic, with four bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, toilet room, and shower. It slept ten and even had a fireplace that we lit up both nights. For 10 FJD ($5.50 US) a night, it was a cute escape!

Next, we checked out a few backpackers resorts.

Robinson Crusoe Island


Our glorious, smelly bucket showers.


There was a hilarious "ceremony" after the crab race to announce the winners. My friend Maika had to present the reward using a trumpet all taped together. Had to be there kinda things.

At Robinson Crusoe we took bucket showers with rain water, but ate food fit for a 5 star resort. There were mekes (Fijian traditional dance, much like Hawaiian dances) at night and during the afternoon, so we enjoyed two amazing shows.


Fire dancing from Samoa.


The daytime show with more fire.


Removing the potatoes from the lovo just before the fire walking. Yes, those potatoes are hot.

Before each feast there was a lovo (Earth oven) which the men removed the cooked food and then performed fire walking. The stones were so HOT. I didn’t believe them until after all the men had done their stunt, they poured water on the stones and they still sizzled. So Jessica and I definitely had to try it out.


Sis, fire walking, that face is for real.


Me, fire walking.

There was also free kayaks, snorkeling, a pool, free 15 minute massage, New Zealand ice cream, and plenty of hammocks.

Kula Eco Park




I want to eat you!

Not too impressed. Nice park with some iguanas, parrots, and sea turtles.


Jessica playing tongues with the boa constrictor.


Na beka, a fruit bat. They only had two at the park... but there are thousands in my village.


Who you lookin at?


Another banded iguana who is a messy eater.


A banded iguana.

The BeacHouse

Then we headed on to BeacHouse on the Coral Coast. We were totally impressed. For about $18 US a night we had a posh common area with a pool table, ping pong, hammocks, a pool, a neat bamboo swing, and plenty of activities to keep us busy.


I am so building one of these near my village.


The awesomest swing you have never swung on!

The desserts were to die for and they supplied a kitchen for backpackers to cook their own food (although, the kitchen was not advertised as well as their surfing lessons, horseback riding, and one hour massages ($12 US). The happy hour made a 16 oz mug of Fiji Bitter about 1.75 USD. Overall, I was impressed and all of the volunteers on Viti Levu will be returning for Halloween!


The Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple on Main St. Nadi.

Our trip came to an end before we even realized it had begun. We headed back towards Nadi, did some souvenir shopping, and I sent her off on the 757. It was a nice trip that I wished lasted longer. Miss you terribly, Sissy!

Kindy Update


The kindy on a fieldtrip to collect sand - the topic of the week - their choice!


Learning about sand.


Using one of their gifts from First Christian Church of Gainesville, Texas, magnifying glasses to identify what the sand is made of.


Walking through the village.

Footpaths Already on the Move


A three year old sister of mine, Wati, helping collect gravel.


My 72 year old Grandfather dumbing his first load of gravel at our collection site.


My 73 year old Grandfather shoveling sand into the youths' pig feed sacks.


Grandfather and grandson collecting gravel together.

The men of the village have begun collecting sand and gravel for the footpath project. Only problem, I am still lacking about $2500 US for our project. They are now asking when they should expect the financial assistance and I can only tell them that we are still waiting. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to raise this money fast? I have thought about an ad in the newspaper, but there has to be a better solution. Otherwise, if anyone would like to help, please visit the URL below:
www.peacecorps.gov/donate
Once here, search for project number 411-146 or country “Fiji”.

Thank you everyone who has already donated and I look forward to sending out Thank You letters soon!


Carrying the sand from near the rocks in our bay into the village.


The youth cleaning the sand.