Respecting the Dead, Welcoming Life, Brushing our Teeth, Pacing the Sun-Drenched Sands, and Exploring the Ocean’s Secrets

Respecting the Dead
100th Day Celebration

The Fijian culture has a ritual of feasting on the 10th day and the 100th day after the death of a loved one. Everyone in the village gets together to help hunt for the meat (usually pieces of a cow carried from the far depths of the rainforest), climb the tallest trees and dig the deepest roots (lol, to gather breadfruit, cassava, and dalo), gather the firewood, prepare the ingredients, cook, feed over 100 people, clean their dishes (usually two plates per person), and clean up the table spread. So much work, but because they are working together each group has their own job. Men collect meat and root crops, youth collect firewood and help cook, women prepare, cook, do dishes, and clean up. Sounds like women got the raw end of the deal right?! They always do.

This week we celebrated the death of my Bubu Livia. She was only in the village for about a month after I moved in, but I did visit with her a lot in that initial “getting acquainted” stage of my service and she was always a kind, gentle, and animated elder.

Pictures are from the day of the celebration/remembrance feast.





Before the feast

Preparing the food.

During the Feast

My namesake eating a huge, nasty pig bone.

Sio, my namesake's husband.

Hell yeah! Santa does rock!



Our Catholic Church







My favorite boy, Niko


10th Day celebration for my Bubu in a nearby settlement








Welcoming Life

My good friend Tokasa finally had her baby! A healthy, beautiful baby boy! She got pregnant a month after I arrived in Fiji and ever since I moved to site I have been keeping watch over her and becoming good friends. She was placed in a village near the hospital about a month ago and while I was away for the cyclone she had Joji! These pictures are of him at one week old.

The mom and the baby.

Joji!




Brushing our Teeth

I have been doing this small, yet effective workshop with people/groups around the village for a few weeks now and I finally got around to the kindy. The kids loved it, although, there was a 15 minute video that I could not get my computer to play. Oh well. First, the teacher and I read them the large Colgate book, then I demonstrated how to brush their teeth with a large scale set of fake teeth, and finally, we all brushed our teeth together.

Sisi teaching the children how to brush their teeth.

Go time.






Pacing the Sun-Drenched Sands

When I wake up at the crack of dawn (or before) I get the urge to go watch the sun rise. This morning was a 5:45 AMer and I could not get back to sleep for the life of me. The stars were brightly shining and the sun was set to rise late within the six o-clock hour so I started off along the beach towards my favorite rock. I stopped several times to enjoy the stillness in the air and the brilliance in the sky above. Upon reaching my rock the sun was just breaking. The sunrise was nothing to be excited about but as it came up higher and higher I was able to see all kinds of purple jellyfish, crabs, shells, corals, sea stars, and breathtaking scenery. I started snapping pictures revealing the suicide attempts of these beautiful jelly creatures (Upside-Down Jellyfish, non stinging).

Crown-of-Thorns























Exploring the Ocean’s Secrets

I got a 3 hour snorkel excursion in yesterday. The reefs just in front of my village are sparse until you reach the edge of the coral where it drops into the depths of the deep blue. The wall of a reef has always been my favorite area to snorkel and dive because it is 3 dimensional as the eye travels down. As soon as I reached the lip of the summit I spotted a minute, yet vivid nudibranch.

Traveling on were schools of tiny fish as well as game fish that any fisherman would be proud to pull in. My ultimate prize was this cowry shell, of course I had the arduous task of allowing the snail to die so that I could keep his marvelous home.



Earlier yesterday morning is when I spotted the upside-down jellyfishes’ attempts at suicide on the beach. As I was snorkeling I passed one of their kinds, a giant, purple jellyfish that was stunning in the afternoon sun.






Grog

Washing the Grog

Pounding the grog.


Misc.


View at the beach where I wait for my boat.


View of the Cycle

My Mogli

O Viti

Since nothing really happened this week, except playing Scrabble, watching movies, and telling stories. Oh, and of course eating good American food! So, instead, I thought I should give a quick overview of Fiji. I know I have covered most of this throughout my blogs, but here is a quickie:


1. Fiji is a former British colony, independent since 1970, and lies about half way between, Papeete, Tahiti and Cairns, Australia. Most all of the nation's 333 islands are of volcanic origin.

2. Ethnically, the first Fijians were of Melanesian origin. Based on archeological evidence (primarily pottery), it appears that the islands were settled in three waves-1600 BC, 400-100 BC and 1000-1800 AD-by people immigrating from what is now Papua New Guinea. Because of various incursions, however, especially by the Tongans, many Fijians of today combine Melanesian physical characteristics (short stature, dark-skin and fuzzy hair) with those of the Polynesians (tall, muscular, fair and straight hair).

3. Cannibalism was deeply ingrained in the Fijian culture long before the birth of Christ. Indeed, the custom was an important aspect of the Fijian religion in which the great warrior-gods were themselves cannibals. The prime (U.S.D.A.?) idea behind this gruesome practice was to consume those who were captured in battle, because, as Rob Kay, the author of Fiji-a Survival Guide, points out: "Eating your enemy was the ultimate disgrace the victor could impose, and in the Fijian system of ancestor worship this became a lasting insult to the victims' families." Not surprisingly, as Kay continues, there was a good deal of "vicious infighting, internecine warfare and vengeance-seeking that went on in pre-Christian times."

4. In 1874, when Fiji became a crown colony of England, it was decided that substantial economic development was necessary. Concluding that the production of sugar cane would be just the ticket, but unwilling to exploit the indigenous Fijians, the governor at the time, Sir Arthur Gordon, decided to import workers from India. To that end, beginning in 1879, and continuing until 1916, some 60,000 Indians were brought in to tend the fields. By 1999 almost half of Fiji's total population of 850,000 was of Indian origin, and, as a result, Mahendra Chaudhry was elected as Fiji's first Indo-Fijian prime minister. Unfortunately, because Chaudhry endorsed land reforms (previously only indigenous Fijians could own land), and a social justice bill that reduced government programs for the "native" people, in May 2000, in a coup during which four rebels were killed, both he and his government were overthrown. Shortly thereafter, in yet another destabilizing twist, the insurgents themselves were ousted, and in August 2001, new elections were held. Today, still facing seemingly intractable problems, it remains to be seen how the current government will fare.

5. Perhaps the most famous Fijian social custom involves the drinking of kava, a concoction made by mixing ground, dried kava roots, a shrub related to the pepper family, and water. The resulting beverage, which is served in a large wooden bowl, looks very much dirty dishwater, and has a peculiar, but not unpleasant, taste. In older, pre-blender days, the roots were chewed to a pulp by young virgins, whose saliva, it is said, somehow reacted with the root's active ingredients, thereby intensifying the buzz the kava drinker might feel.

Well, now you know. Since we did not get blown away by Cyclone Tomas I thought before the next one comes and wipes out the entire country, I should have a little information in writing.

In the past week I have been spending a lot of time on the internet researching and planning strict itineraries for a trip coming up to Vanua Levu, "the visit" by my mom and sister, and a trip to hike to the highest point in Fiji. Lots of traveling to look forward to! I have found that this is the only way I get through each week, is by having something to look forward to in the near future! Oh Fijian coping strategies.

Anyways, talk to ya'll soon. Miss you Bestie, Sissy, Mom, and Dad.

Fiji's Prayers Were Heard

The Final Path

Hurricane to smash us

Cyclone Tomas -

Some bad weather is a comin. Cyclone Tomas is estimated to hit us early Monday morning (Sunday morning for you folks in the Promise Land). It is at least 7 times the size of Fiji! I have found a new favorite website through the US Navy stationed in Pearl Harbor. The latest update by the Naval Oceanography Portal is as follows.

131500Z POSITION NEAR 12.6S 179.0W.TROPICAL CYCLONE (TC) 19P (TOMAS), LOCATED APPROXIMATELY 380 NM NORTHEAST OF NADI, FIJI, HAS TRACKED SOUTHWESTWARD AT 06 KNOTS OVER THE PAST SIX HOURS. ANIMATED INFRARED SATELLITE IMAGERY SHOWS CONVECTIVE BANDING WRAPPING INTO A LOW LEVEL CIRCULATION CENTER AND A 130703Z SSMIS IMAGE SHOWS A DEFINED MICROWAVE EYE. THE INTENSITY HAS NOT INCREASED AS EXPECTED IN THE PREVIOUS FORECAST AND REMAINS AT 65 KNOTS BASED ON PGTW, ABRF, AND CPHC DVORAK INTENSITY ESTIMATES. UPPER LEVEL ANALYSIS SHOWS THAT TC 19P IS LOCATED IN AN AREA OF LOW VERTICAL WIND SHEAR (VWS), BENEATH AN AREA OF DIFFLUENCE PROVIDING GOOD RADIAL OUTFLOW. TC 19P IS CURRENTLY TRACKING ON THE NORTHWESTERN PERIPHERY OF A SUBTROPICAL STEERING RIDGE THAT IS WEAKENING DUE TO A TRANSITORY MID-LATITUDE, UPPER LEVEL TROUGH. THE SUBTROPICAL RIDGE WILL CONTINUE TO WEAKEN AND ALLOW TOMAS TO ROUND THE RIDGE AXIS BY TAU 72 AND THEN BEGIN TO RECURVE TO THE SOUTHEAST. TC 19P IS FORECAST TO CONTINUE TO INTENSIFY THROUGH TAU 72, WHEN OCEAN HEAT CONTENT WILL DECREASE AND VWS WILL INCREASE AS TOMAS BEGINS TO INTERACT WITH THE BAROCLINIC ZONE. NUMERICAL MODEL GUIDANCE IS IN AGREEMENT WITH THE RECURVATURE SCENARIO, HOWEVER THE TIMING OF THE RECURVE DIFFERS SLIGHTLY. THE GFS MODEL IS AN OUTLIER WITH A SHARPER TURN AND A SIGNIFICANTLY FASTER TRACK SPEED THAN THE OTHER MODELS. THE CURRENT FORECAST IS BASED ON THE CONSENSUS OF AVAILABLE GUIDANCE, WHICH INDICATES A TRACK OVER VANUA LEVU, FIJI WITH SPEEDS SLIGHTLY SLOWER THAN CONSENSUS AT THE EXTENDED TAUS TO ACCOUNT FOR GFS. MAXIMUM SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT AT 131200Z IS 19 FEET. NEXT WARNINGS AT 140300Z AND 141500Z. TWELVE-HOURLY UPDATES.
See that little speck of green land in the center towards the bottom, that is Fiji, the islands of Vanua Levu nothward and Viti Levu in the south.

Now isn't that a mouthful of oceanography terminology. A simpler report from the Fiji Radio website is as follows:

Tropical Cyclone Tomas is now 600km North-Northeast of Udu Point at of 3am this morning, and with average winds of up to 110km per hour.

In the latest special weather bulletin released by the Nadi Weather Office it says that Cyclone Tomas is moving west at 9km per hour and gradually intensifying.

Compared to the last special bulletin that was released last night at 9pm, Tomas has changed direction.

Before, it was moving southwest with winds of up to 90km per hour but now its heading West, growing more powerful and packing winds of up to 110km per hour.

However Cyclone Tomas has slowed down. As of mid-day yesterday it was moving at 10km per hour before picking up speed as of 9pm last night, moving at 15km per hour but now its only moving at 9km per hour.

But our weather forecasters are still wary and maintain the Cyclone Alert issued yesterday is still in force for the whole Fiji Group.

On this forecast track the cyclone may bring damaging gale force winds over most parts of Fiji in the next 36 to 48 hours.

People are advised that flooding of low lying areas and coastal areas is likely to occur within this time period as rain becomes frequent.

For all those who have boats out at sea, you’re advised that a strong wind warning is in force for all Fiji waters with speed of up to 35knots. Rough seas and damaging waves are developing and you’re advised to take the necessary precautions.

Meanwhile senior weather forecaster at the Nadi weather office-Robin Nateniela says if Cyclone Tomas maintains its current path, its likely to make landfall in Fiji from Vanua Levu.

“At the moment we are just about to issue an alert special weather bulletin for Fiji which is basically an alert and mainly for Cikobia at this stage with an alert we expecting the on set of strong to gale force winds in the next forty eight hours where as the rest of the Fiji group is generally are not being affected at this stage but we will closely monitor the movement of TC THOMAS as it moves westwards perhaps in the twenty four to thirty six hours we can have a concrete detail on what path will it take and will it actually be in the next twenty four hours and the places that’s gonna be mostly affected.”

The Disaster Management office is also on full alert in anticipation of what Cyclone Tomas may bring to the Fiji group.

Although the cyclone is projected to hit the North of Vanua Levu by late Sunday, DISMAC Acting Director Pajiliai Dobui says all necessary precautions must be taken now to prevent any mishaps.

“For those who are living in low lying areas, I think its best if they move to higher ground and also for those who are living in residences that may not withstand the force of the wind, please be advised that it is best to consider moving to other residences or to your friends or to evacuation centers that are available while you still have the time.”

DISMAC has also alerted their different evacuation centers around the country who are on standby should the need arise.

“At this stage all the divisional operational centers is on standby. It has been activated and all are on standby. And similarly all the evacuation centers have been advised to be ready and available in case we have evacuees coming in tomorrow morning or sometime tomorrow in case of the cyclone.”

Dobui is also advising the whole Fiji group to be on high alert as the course of the cyclone can change abruptly.

Cyclone Tomas is projected to hit Northern Vanualevu on Sunday afternoon.

Well, now you know.

Check Me Out

Sorry I have not blogged in a while.

On Thursday after town I mentioned to John and Judy about the only tourist attraction in our area which was Udreudre’s tomb. So, supposedly, this man ate 872 people, everyone one he ever killed in war. Legend has it that his main diet was people, which to eat that many it would have to be your only source of protein. Anyways, John gladly stopped so that Judy, Lisa, and I could see this weedy concrete block at an unmarked location on the side of the road.



On Thursday evening and Friday John and I made blackboards for the kindergarten! I had bought paint in Suva and John was willing to sell me some scrap wood so we got to work making 12 individual blackboards and one large one for the teacher. They turned out great! Now that kindergarten is back up and running it appears that there will be 15 students this term. So, we might have to pull together a few more.



This week I went to Nausori for Ulamila’s first birthday party!
The angel!

It went extremely well. A Fijian’s first birthday party is often the only birthday ever celebrated. There is a traditional giving of grog called an isevusevu, plus the baby is dressed in masi cloth (made out of a plant), a family member other than her parents holds her during the ceremony, everyone sings “Happy Birthday”, the baby blows out the candle, cuts the cake, and then the first locket of hair is cut. Afterwards, everyone eats, visits, and gorges themselves on cake. The birthday parties are quite European influenced, although, the presents are not opened in front of everyone, but instead are taken into a back room to be opened later.

The traditional birthday suit.

This is what we eat. Mmmm.

Me and Papa.

I helped cook, take pictures, entertain guests, and did ALL the dishes, whew. I stayed at a friends’ house (relatives of the birthday girl) and we had a lot of fun watching movies, taking walks in the rain, and telling stories! Thank you Filo and Ana for the good weekend! I had plans of coming back on Sunday, but it turns out that Monday was Prophet Muhammed’s birthday (I made the mistake at lunch on Thursday of saying “Why do they have to close everything down? No one celebrates Prophet Muhammed’s birthday.” That statement got shut down real fast. Apparently Indians celebrate his birthday. So, I stayed through Monday, only to get stuck in a bind with no buses running on the eroded King’s Road.

Look what I found at the party! WAR EAGLE! He said his brother went to Auburn about 30 years ago and recently brought him back this shirt! Cool! First Auburn thing I have seen in Fiji that I did not bring here on my back!

Filo and Ana going to school.

On Monday, Filo and I made a quick trip to town to go see the Health Center about my infected leg. I had a bug bite around Thursday and started to scratch it breaking the skin open into a small scab. Well, that scab got infected and turned into a volcano. I went to the health center to get some antibiotics and the nurse tosses me eight 500 Mg penicillin pills. That won’t get me far. She didn’t even look at it. I can see why so many people die in Fiji and never have a just cause. There are so many people who say so and so is sick and a week later they are dead, with no reason other than an upset stomach. The health care in this country could use a reboot.

The friends I stayed with.

For some reason a tropical depression coincided with a tsunami warning on Sunday (because of the earthquake in Chile). The tsunami did not turn up any results, just another scare. I am starting to treat them a lot like the Fijians, because the warnings are as often as tornado warnings in the Texas panhandle. The tropical depression on the other hand rained for two days straight, shutting down the bus system back to my site.

On Tuesday I made it to Suva and went to the private hospital to see a dermatologist about my inexhaustible dandruff. He prescribed me three things, one a ketoconozole tablet, two an antifungal cream, and three, another shampoo. The good thing is I think this combination is working! I was put up in a hotel where I blasted the air conditioner, watched tv, and enjoyed a bed that I wouldn’t have to make in the morning, oh, plus hot water!



Each time I visited the Peace Corps office I asked the doctor to tend to my volcano and she politely obliged. I think I really enjoy having a doctor helping me with my every need. Thanks Peace Corps!

Finally, on Wednesday I made it back to site, only to turn around the next morning and head to town. Nothing exciting in town, highlight, I drank half a beer at lunch.

Today I delivered the new blackboards to the kindergarten teacher. She was sooo excited and thankful and saying that she could not wait to use them with the kids on Monday. We are lucky to have such a devoted teacher who really cares!

P.S. I am starting the proposal for footpaths. So those of you who are interested in helping my cause it will be posted on Peace Corps’ website in due time.

P.S.S. Those of you putting together a goody package for me… I would LOVE some Dove dark chocolate or caramels, chili cheese Foritoes, graham crackers, and Easter candy! I miss out on most of the BIG American holidays here in Fiji, so packages to remind me are always much appreciated! Thank you so much Teresa for all of the Halloween candy last October! New bestsellers (books) are always good too!




The kindy's new chalkboards that John and I made.



Since Wednesday I have been taking it easy because my leg has needed time to heal. I was told not to get in any water. Around here, all of my activities involve water. Most of the week I was preparing lessons for the kindergarten, helping the teacher during class, reading my new trilogy, Philip Pullman’s “His Dark Materials”, and visiting my neighbors.



For those of you with an invitation to the Pacific Islands, or really Peace Corps service in general, I wanted to list a few of the things that I am really glad I brought.

1. A travel feather pillow. Most pillows in undeveloped countries are made out of indescribable hard objects.
2. A nice towel. These little boogers are useful every day, and in Fiji, four or five times a day. Bring a large one that you can cover your entire body with to get from your distant shower lean-to to your grass hut.
3. Good knives. You do a lot of cooking from scratch because American foods are not readily available. Also, be prepared to sharpen them often.
4. Your favorite book. Selection is limited and very expensive.
5. Plenty of underwear/bras as you will not find nice quality under garments in your third world destination. Take my word on this one.
6. Your favorite spices, as the country you are going to may not have ANYTHING American. Things like Italian seasoning, garlic salt, and season salt. They will be a lifesaver when it comes to bland food or cooking gone wrong.
7. Last, but not least, a sense of humor. People will say things that you do not appreciate, like, “You are fat” or “No, you need to do it this way”. These lines sound like they won’t bother you, but when you hear them day in and day out, you will get quite annoyed. I just wish it was polite to say in return, “You too” or “If you want something done your way, then do it yourself”.

This is not a complete list by any means. My favorite item is my mask and snorkel. If I didn’t bring them from home I would be suffering terribly.

Also, make sure you have a trusty companion back home who will send you whatever you need, whenever you need it, for example, your mom!

So this past Saturday a man who served for the US Army in Iraq has moved back to the village. He is an injured war veteran and got caught up in a roadside bomb that severely injured his spinal column. I am excited about him moving into the village because he is experienced, easy to talk to, and people will head his advice. He is in my favorite mataqali (family) and plans to build a house in the coming months. He brought his eighteen year old son who is also one of my new best friends! Yay!

During the bosevakoro (meeting of the village) on Monday the village decided to help me put together a small group to start working on editing the proposal, taking measurements, and getting a quotation for the footpaths. I just hope after we get the money the youth are willing to build them. I guess I should not stress until the time comes.

I also announced “THE BURE THEATER”. I now have a movie theater in my house on Wednesdays for the youth, Fridays for the kids, and Sundays for the women. It has been a hit even before I was able to announce it. The first night with the kids I had 9, the first night with the women I had 6 (and served hot chocolate and popcorn), and I have a feeling tomorrow youth night will be huge! The village seems to love the idea!

I also announced that IHRDP (Integrated Human Resource Development Program) will be coming March 17! This is a big day for me as they are coming to assess the interest of Virgin Coconut Oil production in the village. I am really excited and hoping that all goes well!